No country gives me the impression of being an empire quite like Russia does. Moscow, where I recently traveled for the first time in many years, is the capital of an immense and powerful empire, the vital center of which is the Kremlin, as it has been for centuries. I had imagined that after the…
It was during the 13th century, in a world of men, that one woman would distinguish herself. Shajar al-Durr, once a Turkish slave, was the wife of the Sultan of Egypt, Al Salih Ayyub. Shajar possessed a tremendous character and refused to be locked in the harem, so she followed husband, even to war. Before…
Cyprus is cruelly divided between the Greek half in the south and the Turkish half in the north. Despite being built up, with villages, houses and hotels lining the coasts, the island maintains its charm and authenticity. Cypriots are Greek, and speak Greek, however Cyprus, with its sumptuous, essentially Mediterranean nature, is very different from…
I discovered Palmyra in the winter of 1964. It was cold, terribly cold. We were staying at the Queen Zenobia Hotel, the only hotel around. This structure, located amid the low and crumbling ruins of the area, had been built by Countess Margot d’Andurain. Margot, a French woman, had long ago married a garrison officer in Palmyra,…
Morocco, the country of my youth. I lived there with my maternal family during World War II. I returned frequently over the years until the death of my much beloved grandmother, who lived in the small city of Larache, in the north of the country. A few years ago, I traveled to the south of Morocco,…
The European winter: cold, rainy, and foggy. During February, the most difficult month of this season, the Peloponnesus proved to be full of sunlight, wildflowers, budding almond trees, and surrounded by a sea of deep blue. It is the most inviting and charming time to visit the marvels that dot the Peloponnesus; in 2014, I brought…
The south of Turkey is a vast region, infrequently visited and little known, teeming with monuments that carry the mark of a rather unique synthesis. The typically Oriental styles mix with a strong Greco-Roman influence, along with the many strange local traditions, all of which, yields a profound originality to the cultural testaments of this region. I am…
The island of Cythera: I discovered this magical place thanks to one of its great admirers, my friend Fivos. He showed me her treasures, both known and unknown, and in particular, the splendid and terrifying ruins of Palaiochora. – – – – Fivos had a surprise for me. A peak upon which stands a medieval…
It was fifteen or twenty years ago. We took the desert road from Cairo to Alexandria, then turned left and continued along the sea until Mersa Matruh, the famous port used by Queen Cleopatra and General Rommel alike. From there, the road turns right, through the desert to the oasis of Siwa, some 200 miles…
Mexico is an inexhaustible reservoir of delights. Foremost are its people. I do not know of any other people more sophisticated than the Mexicans. Next are its monuments, in their infinite variety, whether pre-Columbian or Spanish baroque. Then there are the landscapes, the jungles and deserts, the grand plains and inaccessible mountains, and the smoldering…